adrianc
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Post by adrianc on Dec 10, 2022 8:48:21 GMT
Thanks for the information. Great thing about the Clamp meters is you dont need to do any wiring, so dont need to mess about with the permanently live wires that going into the meter.
I am not an electrician so might be off the mark. But I have a clamp meter and to measure the current (amps) for AC you have to clamp the live lead in isolation. This is normally impossible to do directly as live neutral and earth are normally sheathed together in plastic, except at the meter itself. I have made a work around for appliances which use a 13A plug. I connected a plug to a trailing socket with the live lead separated. I unplug the appliance, then plug in my adapter and plug the appliance into the adaptor socket. This appears to work. If any electrician is reading this please confirm or not. Or spend a tenner on one of these... (You can borrow mine, if you want...) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204112138392
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keitha
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Post by keitha on Dec 10, 2022 11:46:43 GMT
My clamp from my Solar would be loose round a single cable it is designed to fit around something about 12mm in diameter Mine is even bigger, but it does not need to be tight fit round the cable as it works. I suppose, from the electromagnetic field round the cable. When you use it do you clamp the live lead on it's own or do you clamp the cable carrying live, neutral and earth? it's clamped round the whole LNE cable as that is how it was fitted on installation
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keitha
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Post by keitha on Dec 10, 2022 11:48:04 GMT
I am not an electrician so might be off the mark. But I have a clamp meter and to measure the current (amps) for AC you have to clamp the live lead in isolation. This is normally impossible to do directly as live neutral and earth are normally sheathed together in plastic, except at the meter itself. I have made a work around for appliances which use a 13A plug. I connected a plug to a trailing socket with the live lead separated. I unplug the appliance, then plug in my adapter and plug the appliance into the adaptor socket. This appears to work. If any electrician is reading this please confirm or not. Or spend a tenner on one of these... (You can borrow mine, if you want...) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204112138392That reminds me mine is out on loan, I must get it back
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littleoldlady
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Post by littleoldlady on Dec 10, 2022 11:52:55 GMT
Thanks adrianc . That's a lot neater than mu home made adaptor.
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Post by bracknellboy on Dec 10, 2022 13:56:51 GMT
I am not an electrician so might be off the mark. But I have a clamp meter and to measure the current (amps) for AC you have to clamp the live lead in isolation. This is normally impossible to do directly as live neutral and earth are normally sheathed together in plastic, except at the meter itself. I have made a work around for appliances which use a 13A plug. I connected a plug to a trailing socket with the live lead separated. I unplug the appliance, then plug in my adapter and plug the appliance into the adaptor socket. This appears to work. If any electrician is reading this please confirm or not. Or spend a tenner on one of these... (You can borrow mine, if you want...) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204112138392more like £15-£18 at the moment than a tenner. I couldn't get the one I wanted for a sensible price a month or so ago, but did find a cheaper one for around £13 that appears to be accurate.
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keitha
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Post by keitha on Dec 10, 2022 13:57:20 GMT
As an aside and I know this topic is electric specific.
I have, as many of you will a gas condensing combi boiler
Last year I was made aware that running it with a flow temperature above 55 means it doesn't condense and is therefore less efficient.
I turned the flow temperature down last winter and achieved good results, longer run times but less gas usage. yes the house takes a little longer to warm up
This year I have tweaked it down a little further and with the figures from my hive I have been drawing some conclusions.
yesterday never got above freezing here and the heating ran for a fraction over 10 hours, but my gas usage is running at around 7kWh on a 28kWh rated boiler. and I guess it won't modulate much below 25% of it's rated output. The gas engineer who fitted it when the old one broke told me that a 28kWh boiler would struggle and I really needed a 35 kWh rated model. my counter argument was that the previous boiler was a 24 so 28 was an upgrade.
Now to numbers:-
2018/19 8250kWh used 2019/20 9050kWh used 2020/21 10000kWh used 2021/22 7150 kWh used !
so the lower flow temperatures are saving a big chunk of gas
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michaelc
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Post by michaelc on Dec 10, 2022 14:05:24 GMT
My clamp from my Solar would be loose round a single cable it is designed to fit around something about 12mm in diameter Mine is even bigger, but it does not need to be tight fit round the cable as it works. I suppose, from the electromagnetic field round the cable. When you use it do you clamp the live lead on it's own or do you clamp the cable carrying live, neutral and earth? Live or "line" as they like to call it now. The socket monitor Adrian links to does something different - it monitors only what is connected to it. The tails method shows usage across the whole installation (i.e. your house).
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Post by bracknellboy on Dec 10, 2022 14:17:25 GMT
As an aside and I know this topic is electric specific. I have, as many of you will a gas condensing combi boiler Last year I was made aware that running it with a flow temperature above 55 means it doesn't condense and is therefore less efficient. I turned the flow temperature down last winter and achieved good results, longer run times but less gas usage. yes the house takes a little longer to warm up This year I have tweaked it down a little further and with the figures from my hive I have been drawing some conclusions. yesterday never got above freezing here and the heating ran for a fraction over 10 hours, but my gas usage is running at around 7kWh on a 28kWh rated boiler. and I guess it won't modulate much below 25% of it's rated output. The gas engineer who fitted it when the old one broke told me that a 28kWh boiler would struggle and I really needed a 35 kWh rated model. my counter argument was that the previous boiler was a 24 so 28 was an upgrade. Now to numbers:- 2018/19 8250kWh used 2019/20 9050kWh used 2020/21 10000kWh used 2021/22 7150 kWh used ! so the lower flow temperatures are saving a big chunk of gas What I have read over the last 6 months this is very much a known thing: your figures would seem to prove it. Interesting though that you make the distinction of a combi boiler. I had understood it was true for all boilers, but without really understanding the topic. It has prompted me to go do some more digging, and the suggestion is that it is only valid advice for combi boilers. But a bit more reading suggests from an efficiency point of view it is true for ALL boilers, but that it is the issue of temperature of hot water in the hot water cylinder rather than the nature of the boiler that is the issue. An article I just found talks about having the h/w cylinder at no less than 60C, and consequently a flow temperature of no less than 70C. Yet I had read it was actually OK to have the temp. of water in the hot water tank set to region of 50-55C: that would be sufficient to kill off legionella: that you didn't need to be up at the 60-65C range to do that job (just might be a bit slower). Anyone know more on this topic ? EDIT: I'm just starting to make my way through this : link putting it here in case anyone finds it interesting / useful.
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keitha
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Post by keitha on Dec 11, 2022 10:22:22 GMT
I believe and I would have to look the figures up:-
the geek in me couldn't leave it alone
70 to 80°C: Disinfection range
At 66°C: Legionellae die within 2 minutes
At 60°C: Legionellae die within 32 minutes
At 55°C: Legionellae die within 5 to 6 hours
Above 50°C: They can survive but do not multiply
35 to 46°C: Ideal growth range
20 to 50°C: Legionellae growth range
Below 20°C: Legionellae can survive but are dormant
given legionella might breed in my system am I worried, a) its a sealed system b) I have the hot water at about 55
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2022 17:10:41 GMT
will you be making aerosols with the liquid?
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Post by bracknellboy on Dec 11, 2022 17:57:12 GMT
will you be making aerosols with the liquid? do shower heads create aerosols ? Just to be clear, I had never given any thought whatsoever to legionella in domestic systems until about 6-12 months ago when the subject of temperature of hot water became a particularly hot - or is it cool - topic.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2022 18:56:08 GMT
It's a sealed system, so no aerosols
If it's not a sealed system then you turn it over so much it is not a problem
Unless you really are operating the weirdest domestic system
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michaelc
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Post by michaelc on Dec 11, 2022 19:58:36 GMT
As an aside and I know this topic is electric specific. I have, as many of you will a gas condensing combi boiler Last year I was made aware that running it with a flow temperature above 55 means it doesn't condense and is therefore less efficient. I turned the flow temperature down last winter and achieved good results, longer run times but less gas usage. yes the house takes a little longer to warm up This year I have tweaked it down a little further and with the figures from my hive I have been drawing some conclusions. yesterday never got above freezing here and the heating ran for a fraction over 10 hours, but my gas usage is running at around 7kWh on a 28kWh rated boiler. and I guess it won't modulate much below 25% of it's rated output. The gas engineer who fitted it when the old one broke told me that a 28kWh boiler would struggle and I really needed a 35 kWh rated model. my counter argument was that the previous boiler was a 24 so 28 was an upgrade. Now to numbers:- 2018/19 8250kWh used 2019/20 9050kWh used 2020/21 10000kWh used 2021/22 7150 kWh used ! so the lower flow temperatures are saving a big chunk of gas Interesting but wouldn't the figures be wildly affected by weather both during usage and before?
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agent69
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Post by agent69 on Dec 16, 2022 12:07:26 GMT
Just had confirmation from EDF of the new rates from 1st January:
- Day time rate - up from 42.75p to 49.38p (up 15%)
- night time rate - down from 14.82p to 11.22p (down 24%)
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keitha
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Post by keitha on Dec 16, 2022 17:00:51 GMT
Just had confirmation from EDF of the new rates from 1st January:
- Day time rate - up from 42.75p to 49.38p (up 15%)
- night time rate - down from 14.82p to 11.22p (down 24%)
is that economy 7 ? has the Standing charge changed
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